Day 1

Well that’s it, alarm has just gone off, and its 4.00 am. A quick cuppa, shower, bike gear on and its the start of a week’s motor biking holiday in Ireland. We start our journey from Bolton to Holyhead (what a long laborious motorway journey) but ferry crossing is just 90 minutes to Dun Laoghaire. On arrival in Ireland, it was rather wet and windy but that did not dampen the spirits. Well, we were on holiday. After 7 miles were in the heart of Dublin, our first destination. We had pre booked into the Grafton hotel (we did want to have a bit of class in Dublin seeing as we were using this part as a city break for 2 nights of sight seeing food and of course booze). The weather suddenly changed to glorious sunshine.

Dublin is a great city and a must for everyone. The people are so friendly, there are loads of places to visit but most of all, the atmosphere is electric. We had agreed that the bike would be parked up for 2 days so a Multi Storey was found just round the corner. I sneakily rode past the barrier, mmmm unfortunately when getting the bike back you couldn’t get passed the exit barrier, so plan B went into action. I spoke to a security guard and advised him of my dilemma. After about 5 minutes of him mmming and ahhhing, he asked how long you been here? Me being Scottish said, 1 night (liar). So another 5 minutes of mmming and ahhhing he said one night, 1 euro. Of course I thought bliss. It was supposed to be 19 Euro a night! Well, I would normally say that’s the Irish for you but he was foreign!

Dublin is a great place to visit. The March Hare statues are mental, the food is excellent, the pubs are warm friendly and the whole city is buzzing. They built the spire of light for the millennium but finished it in 2003, well that is the Irish for you. We never had bad service or a bad meal and will definitely return again. But it’s not a biking city, so word of caution. If you intend to go by bike check out parking facilities, park up and let your hair down, you will definitely enjoy yourself.

Day 3

We look at the quickest route to Galway as our plan was to get there early enough to find a B&B then do a little local biking.

We followed the most deserted toll road in the world the N4 then the N6 to Athlone, to try and make up time with extreme head winds and lashing rain. We finally got to Athlone soaked through and freezing cold saddle soar and hungry.

Our initial idea was to get to Athlone and spend a couple of hours looking around the country side and town but due to time constraints and weather, we decided on a quick McDonalds (biking food at its best) and get to Galway and get out of these clothes. Can’t wait to get some A roads but alas we get the N6 from Athlone to Galway. It’s more of an A road but it takes your mind of the driving rain. OH NO! the water proof cover has come off the panniers. So a quick detour to retrieve it, mm next time lets bungee them on good and proper.

Finally after some nice roads (would like to do them in the dry) we arrive at Galway. But guess what? The races are on, so after calling in at the tourist info there appears to be no room at the inn anywhere. We are cold, wet through and hungry and we ARE going to find somewhere. So we knock on the first B&B we see and yippee they have an attic room at extortionate rates. But who cares, we will have it. Biking gear off and panniers emptied we try and find a bit of dry clothing and have a hot shower. We head out to find a place to eat and guess what as soon as we go outside the sun comes out and again we have Mediterranean weather (somebody is playing tricks on us). We found a lovely little wine bar and settled down outside for some nice food and of course wine.

By the way, the waiter comes from Scotland approx 3 miles from where I grew up (how weird). With our bellies full and a good look around Galway, its time for an early night.

Galway is a fantastic town and we would like to have stayed longer but unfortunately we are booked in at our next destination.

Day 4

After a good night’s sleep, we had had a hearty breakfast and got on the road.

Today we are heading to Killarney. It was a lovely morning, not too sunny and the temperature was perfect for biking. It was at this point we both decided we are now actually on our biking holiday. We decided to travel down the west of Ireland through the Shannon to keep away from any major roads. We followed the N18 to Ennis. The scenery was wonderful and the roads were great. When we got to the Shannon, we came across some very tricky single track roads with passing places. We had to weave our way uphill and down, with some hairpin bends along the N68 to kilrush to get to the Shannon ferry. Ah! Finally this was what it was about.

We boarded the ferry and met another couple doing a similar journey from Preston that’s just up the road from Bolton. The ferry takes all of about 10 minutes enough time to grab a Twix and a coffee and let the nice sea breeze blow the remainder of the cob webs away. We arrived in Tarbert and from here we followed the N69 to Tralee where we stopped for lunch. The afternoon stint took us to Killarney. This was short run down the N21 and N22 but the roads were beautiful and a pleasure to ride. The sun was out “mmm” more thoughts of just sheer bliss.

Killarney was a tourist area, however it looked very nice and we were in our element.

We had to find our B&B, some 4 miles out of town but luckily the directions we got the B&B owner were spot on.

On arrival we were greeted by Bridgett and shown to our room to unload while she put the kettle on and made us a nice cuppa she told us all about the area. The ring of Kerry, restaurants and Dingle peninsula etc.

The B&B (Friars Glen) was spectacular and nothing was too much trouble. It was heaven. This was to be our humble abode for 3 days.

In town we had a lovely meal and a few drinks and ended up at a really nice pub with a large beer garden with live music and outdoor bar. Well after stumbling out of there after midnight we tried to flag a taxi, only to find they had all gone on strike, not just in Killarney but the whole of Ireland. OOPS! What we going to do now, it was a long walk back and at dark ‘o’ clock with a belly full of food and booze did not seem very appealing.

But alas 2 very nice young Irish girls stopped to talk to us who happened to know someone who knew someone else (get the drift). Anyway they eventually got us a taxi which we shared, after I must say a big argument with some Germans but the girls won. They were so funny, they offered the taxi driver a bigger tip if he didn’t go back for Germans. Then they told him they couldn’t understand a word he was saying and they hated the Killarney accent (all in good fun though). When they saw where we were staying they threatened to come and share our room (I thought my luck was in!). The departing comment from the girls was “The shower in their hotel was so good it even gave them a twinge in their minge.” (Not sure I understand this, Dave D editor) What an excellent days riding and fun night in Killarney. This was what it was all about; Friars Glen B&B should be put in everybody’s diary as place to stay.

Another hearty breakfast, the weather is Mediterranean with an Atlantic breeze and we are ready for a perfect day’s riding.

We head off anti clockwise round the ring of Kerry. After leaving Killarney town centre and adjoining town of Killorgin, we take the N70 and soon get into the swing of things. The Kerry ring is a spectacular road full of beautiful scenery and lovely little towns and varying of road conditions. However, it must be said that Ireland is full of road markings like, slow seriously bad bend ahead and no overtaking almost everywhere, only to find a lovely sweeping bend. After a magnificent ride along the north side at Cahersiveen, we took the ferry to Valencia Island. We took the ferry over but the bridge back. After getting off the ferry, we stopped for a coffee and a cake and then we followed sign posts along a road which, to our amazement, came to a power station and a dead end. We had to back track and meet a 4 wheel drive Guarda police car coming towards us. This was more like off roading but the triumph handled it well. Unfortunately we did it twice in a row (did we did have a giggle about that and probably seen parts of Ireland you wouldn’t normally see). We got around the island via some of the best roads yet. Suddenly, you could see the bridge ahead and we were back on the main land at Port Magee. From here, we followed the N70 south making a few minor detours and stopping off at some local beaches and a lovely little town called Sneem where we had much deserved food and of course the obligatory chocolate bar. Finally, we headed back via Molls gap on the N71. To do the ring of Kerry in one hit you will be riding all day which is quite exhausting. But, their are plenty of places to stop for photos, lunch and a general mooch around

We finally got back to the B&B at around 5.30pm just in time to open a couple of bottles of wine and relax in the garden with the 2 golden retrievers. After relaxing for an hour or so and getting burnt by the still hot sun, we went to the local pub for something to eat a couple of drinks, and then back for a reasonably early night (before midnight of course).

Today we were heading off for the Dingle peninsula. To get there we take the N70 to Castle Maine, then on to the R561 past Inch (a stunning beach on the Dingle coast, then onto the N86 and into Dingle. Again more spectacular views the roads climbing all the way along the coast line. Dingle is quite a tourist town and didn’t do much for us so a quick coffee and off we go again. This time the roads get better with some nice bends but a fair bit of traffic. There are quite a lot of road works on this part but that didn’t dampen our spirits, we were in our element. The coast line was very sandy and with the weather being in the high twenties, the beach below at Slea Head looked magnificent. So that was it decision made, we tackled the steep ride down to pure white sand and clear blue water. Nothing more to do but off with the bike gear and into the Atlantic for a refreshing swim and dry out in the sun. The only draw back was the steep climb back up the almost vertical hill on the bike two up (no sweat for the Triumph of course even in this blazing heat). From here we headed towards Connor Pass along the R559 via Brandon point. Connor pass was a bit of ride away so we decided to stop for some lunch. When we left, as the weather was still sweltering, I decided to leave my jacket open only to be stung by a bee at about 80mph oops! I mean 50mph, so it was a quick stop to let the little blighter go back to its natural habitat.

When we got near to Connor pass the road and surface changed we were climbing into the mountains it was a perfect part of road for some speed. At the top the view and scenery was magnificent.

Having stopped for a photo and ice cream some German woman passed straining to get over the wall surrounding the car, farted for all to hear, Hee Hee Hee, I nearly choked on my ice cream.

The road down the other side was fairly tight to start with, it was like something you would normally see in magazines of abroad with twisting hairpins and sheer drops, phew what a buzz! Half way down the road opens up again and you can make some progress. We headed back towards Trallee but time was getting on so we needed a quick route for the last leg back to Killarney and the B&B.

This was to be our last night in Killarney, so on arrival back at base we cracked open a nice bottle of wine and chilled out for a while in the what was now called my beer garden. Being our last night here, we decided time to push the boat out and have some posh nosh washed down with some good wine and on to the pub for yet some more Guinness (oh have I not mentioned all the Guinness and Bulmer's Irish Cider that has been consumed so far).

Killarney and the surrounding area are excellent. The biking is fantastic and the nightlife just as good; again the people are warm and friendly. I should say, if you visit this area you must stay at Friars Glen owned and run by Mary and her husband with Bridgett working alongside them. They make you very welcome and nothing is any trouble.

Today were off to Waterford. I’m already perspiring and that’s just loading the bike wearing my shorts and T-shirt. We take the N22 towards Cork through lots of small towns; we give Cork a miss (well it is just another city anyway). On the other side of Cork we pick up the N25 and head for Dungarven for a lunch break. Coming into Dungarven we think this is a ghost town but actually it’s only the perception. You enter from the west along what is probably the longest promenade known to man, finally find civilization in the shape of a nice little harbour area. So a spot of some healthy paninis washed down with the obligatory chips and diet coffee. We have a stroll along the harbour and a little mooch about just to stretch our legs and then on to Waterford.

Waterford is a very large town and guess what there is a music festival on. Stopping at the tourist office again, we find there is very little accommodation available (especially with secure parking). But, we were offered the Granville hotel along the waterfront. They offered us parking for the bike in a secure corridor behind the reception desk (spot on! even our own butler to look after it).

Waterford is very nice and again the hotel staff are excellent, (we in Britain should take some customer service tips from them). There were various live bands playing in the town centre and along the waterfront the atmosphere was lively. We had been warned that there might be a lot of noise throughout the night but we didn’t care, we were on our holidays. We had a wander around the town then went for a lovely meal where the waiter allowed us to take home some metal chop sticks (free of charge of course) and ended the night with a few drinks in the hotel bar.

Today we are off to Wicklow. So, with the bike packed and our thanks said to the hotel staff, we made our way along the N25 to New Ross. Here picked up the N30 to Enniscorthy, where we joined the N11 all the way to Wicklow. The roads were open and fast. However, it finally sunk in that this was to be our last day and night in Ireland so we just sat back cruised along thinking of the journey we had covered so far. The sun was still shinning the traffic was light and the scenery still a pleasure.

We arrived in Wicklow and the pre-booked B&B was okay and the lady owner was warm and friendly.

Wicklow was a strange town we didn’t really know what to make of it. We had a walk towards the sea front to find alas yet another concert. This time it was rubbish so it was back to the town centre for some real food and a bottle of wine to take back to the B&B. We sat in the garden drinking our wine in a very pleasant and peaceful surrounding thinking tomorrow we start the homeward journey.

With all our belongings packed up we start the short journey back to Dun Laoghaire for the ferry home. We are only just outside Wicklow and yes you got it, the rain starts. It rained on our arrival to Ireland and now it’s raining on our exit. So the throttle was opened up and a quick dash to the port. Soaked through and cold we are not looking forward to the UK part of the journey but when we get to Hollyhead the sun is shinning and we have a pleasant journey through the Welsh countryside and home via the motorway.

That night and reminisced about the week we have just had. It was the first time Trudy had done this kind of trip and she thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. We had grins on our faces from ear to ear so much so it would make you speechless just on the thoughts alone never mind the experience.

If anyone has any thoughts for doing a motor biking holiday in Ireland DO NOT hesitate. We had a fabulous time and would recommend it to anyone. I’ve toured France and Germany, but take it from me, for those of you have been abroad, Ireland is as good as both of these places.

Trudy now wants to do France or Spain or at least somewhere in Europe. But one thing is for sure we will both visit Ireland again. All there is left to say now is thank you to everyone in Ireland for making it such a pleasant experience with special thanks to Mary and her crew at

Friars Glen, Country House, Mangerton Road, Muckross, Killarney, Co Kerry. Tel: 353 64 37500