I drove in Rome and survived! Observations of Italian traffic.

Scooterists:-

There are just so many of them, at times it's like driving  through a flock of squawking geese; everything from an antiquated original Vespa ridden by an octogenarian to effectively a step-through superbike.

Rome - traffic flow demands a grim determination to make progress, often marked by fly-specked gritted teeth and a permanent scowl, the attitude is to not stop unless you really have to. On an unseasonably wet morning while out walking, I remarked to my good lady the cobblestones of the road we were then crossing must be hazardous for two wheelers and as if to prove my point, almost as soon as the words had left my mouth, there has a heavy thump behind us followed by a stony and metallic sliding noise. Turning round to lend my assistance it appeared the young lady rider had not
attenuated her late braking style of riding to accommodate the conditions on the downhill slope in question; the usual slipperiness of fresh rain after a long dry spell. Remembering basic 'first on scene' rules and not wishing to aggravate an injury I refrained from helping her up straightaway but then felt a little helpless with my lack of Italian, as I couldn't ask if she was hurt. My dilemma was resolved when three locals came up. The first two picked up the scooter to check it wasn't too badly damaged (it was Italian made after all) and the slowest of the three was left to the less satisfying role of hauling the young lady to her feet, all the while gabbling on at her at a fearful rate. He was probably reproaching her for letting down the image of Italian drivers in front of tourists and if he were the sole member of the Italian I.A.M.*, informing her she should look and plan further ahead and use less front wheel braking in the wet.

Siena - leaving one's lid chained to the front wheel, opening uppermost, results in a handy goldfish environment during a cloudburst.

Florence (my favourite incident) - a dear sweet little old lady stepped out into the quiet road, raised her stick and screeched with a voice that would curdle milk after her middle-aged son who had attempted an escape on his machine. This was enough to also attract the attention of myself and aforementioned good lady, several other tourists of various nationalities and half a dozen or so bored Negroes pedalling tat-for-tourists type merchandise at the exit of a museum. Then despite the sunshine and 25Celsius of the sultry afternoon, she vehemently insisted that he dress properly for his two wheeled transport by tying his woolly scarf firmly in place and fully zipping his jacket. Only after he passed muster did she let him go his way, at which point he throttled up full power from the wheezing 50cc's and sped slowly off almost glowing red under the amused gaze of everyone else in the street. The only thing missing was a round of applause.

Motoring Generally
If no other traffic is coming, a red light is only advisory. Carabinieri (similar to our police) drivers have a special licence to drive under blue lights while resting an arm on the ledge of the open window and smoking a fag.
Police (different to Carabinieri) motorcyclists wear, ala CHiPs (for those old enough to remember it) short sleeved shirts, ordinary uniform trousers, no gloves but at least a stout pair of boots to stamp their authority. Using a mobile is not viewed so harshly (no surprise there) but will be taken into account if there is a more serious issue. If you're not driving fast enough in town, the proximity of following traffic kindly lets you know. At major intersections which are not signal controlled, keep moving at all costs and someone will eventually give way. This is especially important where traffic flow is determined purely by faded white lines and merging, because if you actually stop, no-one can anticipate your course.

Pedestrians
Having driven to one's destination across a city, then doubled the distance finding somewhere to park, the time comes to

revert to primordial existence as a mere pedestrian. Crossing at a junction with no signals now has an altogether more perilous appearance. Sure enough, there is a line of white stripes, albeit very faded, to show 'the path of courage'. However, there is a significant difference to using a zebra crossing here in the U.K.; there is no onus on drivers to actually stop! As a consequence, they will not do so even if you are obviously wanting to step out and cross. The locally approved method then, is as follows. When there is a slightly longer gap in the first lane of traffic, you take your life in your hands
and step onto 'the way of the walker'. If effected with confidence and no dithering, a magical parting of the traffic then occurs as one is apparently surrounded by an invisible shield which keeps traffic from making contact and moves with you as you make your way steadily across up to eight lanes, rather like a stream flowing around a rock. Each of the oncoming drivers predicts your progress and alters theirs accordingly such that traffic continues to go by only six feet in front and four feet behind (but don't look back whatever you do!). Thus sanctuary on the other side is reached with minimal disruption of traffic movement and far more excitement for pedestrians! Incidentally, it is a serious offence to strike a pedestrian on a designated crossing but judging from all the battle scars of the vehicles in Rome, drivers don't worry too much about making contact with other vehicles, street furniture or buildings when manoeuvring in the maze of ancient narrow lanes in the old city centre. Newer cars are those with no dents or scratches and account for around a third of cars in that
area. Parking is often seen to be of the 'I've hit something, so now I must change direction' variety.

Country Roads (...take me home, to the place where I belong...)No, not West Virginia but The Dolomites and the passes in the Italian Alps. Even in our comfy four wheeled vehicle, this was a driving experience to surpass most others on a public road. These roads must be close to drivers' heaven and if you are ever down that way must surely be done. While
climbing the Stelvio pass (as featured on Top Gear) towards Switzerland, with very little other traffic about, full off-siding mode had been employed to great effect to make good progress up the mountain round the many hairpin bends. However, a degree of caution must always be maintained to avoid a quick return to the bottom of the valley thousands of feet below. In many places, posts marking the edge of the tarmac are all there is separating you from the dramatic scenery. I parked up with a huge grin on my face, my wife opened her eyes and it wasn't long before I had prised her fingers loose from the armrests and we were enjoying a stroll around the snowy mountain top.

    Stelvio Pass Hairpins          Repairing the crumbling edge of the road

Roll on the next tour.

Happy driving,  

Geoff